Five Cents · 1866–1883

Shield Nickel

A large ornate shield with a cross on top, flanked by laurel branches, with the date below. A big numeral 5 surrounded by a circle of stars (rays between the stars in 1866 and early 1867 only).

Designer

James B. Longacre

Diameter

20.5 mm

Edge

Plain

Mint mark

None — every Shield nickel was struck in Philadelphia without a mint mark

Composition

1866–1883: 75% copper, 25% nickel · 5 g

Did you know? This was America's first five-cent coin made of nickel — the hard alloy was so tough it cracked dies constantly, so many Shield nickels show raised die-crack lines that collectors actually enjoy.

Beginner tip: Check the date first: 1877 through 1881 are the valuable years, and look between the stars on the back — rays there mean the scarcer 1866-1867 type.

Key dates to look for

1877 Shield Nickel

$1,500+

Struck only as proofs for collectors — no circulation coins

1878 Shield Nickel

$800+

Proof-only year like 1877

1879 Shield Nickel

$300+ even well worn

Very low mintage of about 29,000 circulation coins

1880 Shield Nickel

$1,500+ for genuine circulation strikes

Rarest circulation Shield nickel — only about 16,000 struck

1881 Shield Nickel

$200+

Low mintage of about 68,800 circulation coins

Valuable varieties & errors

1867 With Rays

scarce

$30 – $400+

The original design had rays between the stars on the back, but they made the coin hard to strike cleanly, so the Mint removed them early in 1867. That makes 1867 the only year with both types, and the With Rays version is much scarcer.

How to check: Flip the coin to the side with the big 5. Look between the stars circling the 5 — if you see thin lines (rays) radiating outward between them, you have the scarcer type. No lines between the stars means the common No Rays type.

1873 Closed 3

scarce

$30 – $300

Early 1873 coins used a date punch where the 3 looked almost like an 8 because its openings were so tight. The Mint switched to an Open 3 punch partway through the year, creating two collectible versions.

How to check: Look closely at the 3 in the date with a loupe. If the two curved ends of the 3 nearly touch and the gaps look pinched shut, it is the Closed 3. If the gaps are wide and the 3 is clearly a 3 at arm's length, it is the Open 3.

1879/8 Overdate

rare

$350 – $800

A die originally dated 1878 was re-dated to 1879, leaving traces of the old 8 under the new 9. Most known examples are proofs, since 1879 circulation mintage was tiny.

How to check: With a loupe, study the last digit of the date. On the overdate you can see curved remnants of an 8 poking out from behind the loops of the 9, especially inside its lower loop. Mirror-like proof surfaces are normal for this variety.

1883/2 Overdate

rare

$100 – $600+

In the Shield nickel's final year, leftover dies dated 1882 were re-punched with an 1883 date. Several different die pairs are known, all showing traces of the 2 under the final 3.

How to check: Use a loupe on the last digit of the date. Look for the flat base and curved tail of a 2 showing beneath and to the left of the 3. On the clearest examples the extra metal is visible under the 3's lower curve without much magnification.

Error types found on this series

Die Crack

A crack in the die fills with metal during the strike, leaving a thin raised line on the coin.

Die Cud

A piece of the die broke off at the rim, leaving a raised featureless blob attached to the coin's edge.

Clipped Planchet

A bite-shaped piece of the coin is missing because the blank was punched from an already-punched part of the metal strip.

Off-Center Strike

The blank wasn't centered when struck, so part of the design is missing and part of the coin is blank.

Doubled Die (Obverse)

The front design shows a second, shifted image because the die itself was made doubled.

Real photos where available (credits); others are illustrations.

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